newsletter from
Wine Expressions

Volume 2, Issue 3
September 22, 2006

Plan to join us on Sunday, October 1, when we present a selection of premium tequilas for tasting. Learn what makes them "premium," and experience the difference first-hand. Luis Cuesta, our guest presenter from Southern Wine & Spirits, will guide you through the tasting. The event includes tasting of six premium tequilas, paired to snacks. Cost is $40 per person, advance registration required. We'll run two flights of tastings, at 3 and 4:30 pm. 

(By the way, we just tasted nine premium tequilas at a recent supplier tasting, and trust us, you are in for a treat!)

If you haven't already seen it, be sure to check out our newly redesigned website. We look forward to your e-visits and feedback, so let us know what you think:

www.wineexpressions.com

We've been able to add 8 states to our shipping list; check out the complete list in our Legal Notice.

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Remember Merlot? Described in 1998 as “the wine phenomenon of the 90’s” and the “red wine of the moment” by Wine Spectator, Merlot has seen some difficult times of late, finding itself grouped alongside polyester shirts and leg warmers in the category of “what were we thinking?” trends. But, unlike leg warmers, (which we sincerely hope to never see again), Merlot is experiencing a comeback, fueled by the efforts of thoughtful, dedicated winemakers who’ve refused to let this most noble grape languish.

It’s not an easy task. Americans are known to be fickle consumers, and a large proportion of our economy (like it or not) is media driven. Merlot rode an enormous wave of popularity in this country for ten years, beginning in the early 90’s with the release of medical research linking red wine with good health, and propelled by a mass-marketing campaign promoting Merlot as a softer, more accessible alternative to California’s big (and often expensive) reds. Kind of like, a, Cabernet without the thorns.

American wine buyers bought into the concept wholeheartedly, and American winemakers obliged by producing a veritable ocean of Merlot. California led the way, increasing vineyard acreage dedicated to Merlot ten-fold in ten years. Washington, not about to be left behind, decided to expand its repertoire to include more of this classic Bordeaux varietal. Even New York, traditionally a stronghold of indigenous American varietals, found the marketing opportunity impossible to resist. Everyone, it seemed, was making Merlot, and everyone was drinking it whenever the occasion called for red wine. It was a spectacular success story. And then, it wasn’t.

Unfortunately, much of the wine produced to satisfy Americans’ seemingly insatiable appetite for Merlot was pretty much what you’d expect under the circumstances. Harvested by the ton from vineyards ill-suited to the preferences of this early-ripening grape, and vinified for the masses, the finished product was often a poor representation of the grape’s potential. Dilute, insipid, and at times barely recognizable, Merlot fell prey to its own success.

And then, another blow to Merlot from Miles, the whiny, annoying wine snob in the movie “Sideways” (released in October of 2004), who announced his determination to walk out on his date for the evening if anyone ordered Merlot. His implication was that people who really know wine wouldn’t bother with anything so mundane, and Pinot Noir suddenly became America’s red wine of choice.

Without detracting from Pinot Noir’s many sterling attributes, we’d like to rekindle a discussion on the genuine merits of Merlot. Long before it became a media darling, it was a steadfast and reliable performer. It is, and has long been, Bordeaux’s most-planted black grape varietal, predominant in every region except Medoc and Graves. It is, and has long been, a mainstay among red wine varietals in northeastern Italy. And, in the right hands, it has produced some of the very best wines to come out of California before, during, and after its heyday in the 90’s.

The wines of Chateau Petrus, in the Pomerol region of Bordeaux, France, are among the most expensive and sought-after in the world, routinely commanding more than $500 per bottle in good vintages. The wine is traditionally 100% Merlot (sometimes blended with a touch of Cabernet Franc), crafted from the fruit of old vines, painstakingly pruned and lovingly vinified. It is Merlot held to the highest standard, and the grape seldom disappoints.

California’s Paloma Vineyard demonstrated that the varietal can be held to similar standards in North America when it claimed the #1 spot on Wine Spectator’s “Top 100” list for 2003 for its 2001 Spring Mountain Merlot. And Washington’s Merlot vineyards, judiciously planted and climactically well-suited to their crop, are yielding some head-turning wines in recent vintages. Is it enough to start another Merlot boom? Not likely.

But have hope - Jack Thew sees a bright future for Merlot among serious winemakers and consumers. He predicts that the grape’s comeback will be engineered by small producers nurturing older vines and paying careful attention to site selection, yield management, and the possibilities inherent in terroir.  

“It’s a wonderful grape; it’s certainly not going away”, he says. “Some of these smaller, more innovative wineries are producing Merlot that will knock your socks off.”  Chappellet’s 2003 Napa Merlot and Chile’s Casa Lapostolle ’04 Cuvee Alexandre are perfect examples of finely-wrought Merlot: complex, concentrated, well-structured and balanced, offering pleasurable drinking now or after a few years in the cellar. Novelty Hill’s 2003 Merlot, from Washington’s Columbia Valley, is one of the newest additions to Wine Expressions’ Merlot offerings, and a good fit for Jack’s criteria, with complex nose and flavor and good “bones” in the form of acidity and tannins to balance the fruit. You can find these and other great wines at our online store.

One more to mention - we've just received an outstanding selection from Robert Keenan (Napa Valley). The 2002 Merlot from Keenan has been rated 92 points by Robert Parker, who says "The 2002 Merlot exhibits a dark ruby/purple color along with a big, sweet nose of mocha-infused black cherries and currants intermixed with a hint of espresso roast. Deep, rich, chewy and medium to full-bodied with outstanding balance, this is a beauty to drink over the next 10-12 years."  At $31.60 per bottle, this represents an excellent value for a top-quality wine from Napa Valley.

Jack sees the strongest prospects for Merlot in the role that has sustained it for centuries, that of supporting player to other “marquis” varietals. Bordeaux aficionados have long appreciated the yin/yang symmetry of Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc and Merlot: strong framework perfectly balanced by lush fruit. The Italians reasserted their intention to produce world-class wines with the introduction of “Super Tuscans,” blending traditional Italian Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot. And many Americans don’t realize that their coveted California Cabs are permitted by law to contain as much as 25% of other, unnamed, varietals. More often than not, the anonymous understudy is Merlot. It takes the edges off of Cabernet Sauvignon’s big shoulders, rounds out the corners and makes the fruit sing. It’s the perfect partner and a reliable producer in the vineyard.

With credentials like that, even Miles couldn’t seriously hold a grudge for long. After all, his all-time favorite wine featured in the movie, Cheval Blanc, is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It’s wonderful stuff, even out of a Styrofoam cup.

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Sunday, Oct 1:         Premium Tequila Tasting
Join us at 3 or 4:30 pm to taste a fantastic selection of six premium tequilas.  Event includes educational materials and snacks.  Cost is $40 per person, advance registration required.  Call Wine Expressions at 630-435-9463.

Monday, Oct 2:        Ladies Night Out:  W.I.T.C.H. Wines
On Monday, October 2, we'll celebrate powerful and influential women in the winemaking world with our "Women in Total Control of Herself" wine presentation. Join other women for an evening of great food and exceptional wines, in honor of women wine makers.  We'll also feature our "Babe In Total Control of Herself" cookbook series. 

The event starts at 7:30 pm. Tickets are $25 per person, advance registration required. Call Wine Expressions to reserve your spot at this event.  630-435-9463.

Weekend Tastings:

Friday, Sept 22,  4 - 6:30 pm &
Saturday, September 23,  1 - 6:30 pm:  Sugar & Spice
   (wines with a little sweetness, wines with a bit of zing)

Friday, Sept 29,  4 - 6:30 pm &
Saturday, Sept 30,  1 - 6:30 pm:  Wines from France

Friday, Oct 6,  4 - 6:30 pm &
Saturday, Oct 7,  1 - 3:30 pm: Wines from Italy

Friday, Oct 13,  4 - 6:30 pm &
Saturday, Oct 14,  1 - 6:30 pm: Discover North American Wines
   (We're bringing in some new surprises)

Friday, Oct 20,  4 - 6:30 pm &
Saturday, Oct 21,  1 - 6:30 pm: BEER - Octoberfest

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You must be 21 years of age or older to order any alcoholic beverage.

By law, we are allowed to ship wine to the following states: Arkansas, Connecticut, District of Columbia, California, Colorado, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Louisiana, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, North Dakota, Ohio, Oregon, South Carolina, Texas, Virginia, Washington, West Virginia, Wisconsin and Wyoming.

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